TerryRoss needs
16 years ago
to finish this pair of socks, but the lure of Marnie MacLean's Lily is strongly calling!
latest #32
MonicaJ says
16 years ago
I love that sweater
TerryRoss says
16 years ago
It's beautiful. I ordered in yarn and I'm ready to start knitting as soon as I can finish these socks.
TerryRoss says
16 years ago
I'm ahead enough with the 52PPII that I can afford a little sweater break.
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jennys_wonderland says
16 years ago
OT, but I liked the heel on your Plurk socks so much, I wondered if you had a formula for substituting it in any pattern?
Hattie says
16 years ago
I've been wanting to knit that top since she first knit it on her blog
Hattie says
16 years ago
I was hoping she'd release a pattern for it
TerryRoss says
16 years ago
jennys_wonderland, it's pretty simple. I can outline it for you.
TerryRoss says
16 years ago
Step 1 -- Multiply your total # of stitches for the sock x 60%. That is the amount of stitches you'll want to work the heel on.
TerryRoss says
16 years ago
Step 2 -- Round the number up to the next even #.
TerryRoss says
16 years ago
Step 3 -- Subtract the # of heel stitches from that 60% number and divide by 2 to find how many increase rounds you'll need.
TerryRoss says
16 years ago
Step 4 -- Work an increase round K1, M1R, K to the last stitch, M1L, K1 followed by the next instep instruction (or instep 1st if that's how
TerryRoss says
16 years ago
you started). Then work a plain round for the heel side and then the next instep instruction.
TerryRoss says
16 years ago
Step 5 -- After making all the increase rounds (and their paired plain rounds) work the short row heel.
TerryRoss says
16 years ago
I generally decrease until I have 1/3 of the number of heel stitches unwrapped, and then increase back up.
TerryRoss says
16 years ago
Step 6 -- Begin paired decrease rounds to get back to the original number of heel/sole stitches. Decrease round followed by plain round.
TerryRoss says
16 years ago
And there you have it.
TerryRoss says
16 years ago
The beauty of this heel is that you work it exactly the same whether you are going toe-up or top down.
TerryRoss says
16 years ago
Hattie, I started swatching for it today. I believe I'm going to need to use a size larger needle to get gauge.
jennys_wonderland says
16 years ago
thank you so much for outlining this for me. :-)
TerryRoss says
16 years ago
You're welcome. Just holler if you need any clarification. :-)
jennys_wonderland says
16 years ago
another quick question - I briefly read thru the instructions and ...
jennys_wonderland says
16 years ago
it looks like I can gauge when to start the heel like the plurk pattern, is that right?
TerryRoss says
16 years ago
Yes, you can. Just calculate how many rounds for increases, plus how many short rows you'll have to get down to your unwrapped stitches.
TerryRoss says
16 years ago
For instance if you start with 30 stitches and are working up to 36 and then down to 12, that would take 6 for the increases and 24 more for
TerryRoss says
16 years ago
the decreases to 12 before short rowing back up or 30 rounds/rows. Divide that by your row gauge and subtract from foot lenth to know when
TerryRoss says
16 years ago
to start the heel.
TerryRoss says
16 years ago
If you have a higher instep/larger or wider heel, just adjust the number of stitches you need to increase to something that works better
TerryRoss says
16 years ago
for you, like 65%, 70%, etc.
TerryRoss says
16 years ago
For the mini-gusset.
jennys_wonderland says
16 years ago
thanks again! you're awesome. :-)
TerryRoss says
16 years ago
You're very welcome!
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